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Not sure why it would be kinked like that, but if you paid someone to do it, at least they could get the lower spring perch installed correctly. I could be wrong, but I've never seen one that sits on the shock sideways like that.

Just for reference the E2's do not need to be unhitched to back the trailer. Unfamiliar with other setups.

Holding up their reputation I see.

That's it, the 26DJSE is for sale.... It takes all kinds I reckon, but I suspect those kinds are missing several teeth.

Yup, every Honda I've ever owned had one. There's a few others out there, but I would say that it is the exception rather than the rule, for sure. As much as I love the ZF8 - 8 Speed, at least we aren't forced into doing a new pan every change like lots of them are. They built the filter into...

FWIW priming a single tube shock (Bilstein) isn't a thing regardless of what you might have felt. A dual tube shock, maybe, but a single tube won't change at all.

I'm going to disagree with Frenchy here. While not 100% necessary for that trailer, it is almost always a good idea to shift weight back onto the front of the truck, especially when towing long distances. Also, a single axle trailer is usually more sensitive to sway and loading issues making...

The Husky is a very similar design to the E2's. I would consider them equivalent and buy based on value if that is the setup you're looking at.

My preference is the E2 Roundbar setup. https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/e2-hitch You would only need the 600# bars, don't think that bigger is better in this case.

I do the same. The longer filter is easier to grab and get off as well. I've used a few different brands, all have worked well. Currently on the MC FL400's, previously used some Bosch Distance+ ones.

From all accounts, the 2.7 is an astoundingly tough built engine (If you can get past the crappy parts sourcing that has screwed over a lot of them.) The dual injection setup helps (but doesn't cure) the problems of GDI buildup. The bottom end is hella-stout. I don't believe they have the...

Maybe. If they've applied what they've learned from the 10R140 and 10R80's the the 10R60 then sure, it will be enough. If they just knocked some clutches out of the 10R80 and trimmed down some of the parts, then no. Lets hope because it was developed later that they put some failure analysis...

Yup, and it is going to need replacing if you keep the truck long term. I've seen mention of 150,000 miles but I haven't been able to confirm that. Seems reasonable though, and the whole front of the motor has to come apart since it sits behind the timing chains.

One thing I wouldn't do is buy them on Amazon. Just as likely to get a counterfeit part there as the real thing. Either brick-and-mortar or someplace like Rockauto. And yes, those parts are the same. There is also another part number out there which escapes me at the moment, but it is also...

Yep, and sadly people line up to pay for it as well, leaving the rest of us SOL.

Or seized solid. Bet he went through pads on the truck at a pretty good rate if he did a lot of traveling with it. Reminds me of my uncle. He's got a tandem axle utility trailer that has electric brakes. I borrowed it one day and noticed the the harness had dragged the ground at some point...

LOL, the hell they're not. They're forcing you into a 4x4 of at least XLT level. They can keep their 2.7 with its rubber oil pump belt. Actually, they can keep the 6G all together until they- Let me have the 2.7 on 4x2 XL/STX AND offer the integrated brake controller or Bring the PHEV...

The damping of stock shocks leave much to be desired. Even with the increased roll stiffness of the bar you still need to be able to control the additional sping rate.

They have two listings for the tire. The other one, which is priced at $134 has the date listed on the page. That's where I got the 2021 from. I have no idea what the difference in the tires is.

True enough, I think they are 2021 build dates. Still plenty of life left in them if you drive on a regular basis.