FortyWater12 - Wedge Camper Build

[fortywater12]

Figured I would make thread documenting my wedge camper build. I have decided to make a wedge camper very similar to the GFC design. I am, for the most part, copying the infamous "Ripcord Camper" build that many on the Tacomaworld Forums use. The space frame needed to be modified to fit our ranger bed, and I increased the overall width of the wedge portion to 52" wide to properly fit an Exped DUO LW mattress. The thread for his original build can be seen here:

How to: DIY Wedge Camper

The wedge portion will be constructed out of 80/20 aluminum and the space frame will be 16 gauge steel tubing. I will use MaxMetal panels (known as dibond to some) for the roof, sleeping platform, and sides of the space frame.

The original BOM for his build can be seen for free in the above thread. My parts list specific for this build (BOM) can be seen here with updated pricing:

FortyWater12 Ranger BOM

I started with the modification to the space frame in Solidworks. The main changes were accommodating the different bedrail width, different bed length, and removing the taper of the frame where it meets the front of the cab. This will be fully sealed, riveted, and covered by the wedge, so I am not worried about any water intrusion. I figured the 0 deg taper at the front would fit our trucks better and provide a cleaner look. I constructed the frame entirely out of 1.5" square steel tubing that is 0.065" wall (16 gauge), aside from where the frame meets the bedrails, which it is 2" x 1" 16 gauge tubing. The most difficult thing about building this frame will be the compound angles for the side 45 deg supports, as well as the rear vertical supports. Note that they are angled in 2 directions.

I was able to order my 80/20 extrusion from TECO Industrial in the Bay Area, California. The price wasn't bad for the extrusion, but freight kills. It was about $300 extra in shipping charges/freight. I decided to go with a 100" x 52" top wedge portion. This will allow for a 52" x 78" Exped to sit snugly in the frame. The lower portion of the pop top will be 4.5" x 1.5" 15 series extrusion and the top portion will be 1.5" by 1.5" 15 series extrusion.

I will be ordering my steel today through a friend at a local 4WD shop here in Sacramento, CA, then will start the fab of the space frame while my 80/20 is anodized and shipped to me.

For the panels, I went with 3mm and 6mm MaxMetal.

• 5' x 10' white 3mm sheet for the roof
• 5' x 10' white 6mm sheet for the floor (what I will sleep on)
• (2) 4' x 8' black 3mm sheets for the sides of the space frame

I will update this thread as I continue the build and work through issues etc!

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[Jdyer8989]

I guess I'm not the only one working on a wedge camper. I'm still in the design stage. Still working on my CAD model. I was thinking the same as you, going with the 52" wide.

Have you thought about adding a flip up bed platform? I'm trying to work one into my design.

 

[myothercarizahearse]

well I'm jealous and following your build.

so a little critique? maybe if you want to call it that? don't use the southco C2 latches. they don't last and fill with water and freeze shut. the tiny crimp that holds the entire lock together just fails randomly. It was less than 10 months when I had to replace the first latch on my GFC and it wasn't due to freezing UPGRADE TO C5 SIZE well worth the price. they are water/dust proof and more robust

these guys

 

[fortywater12]

I guess I'm not the only one working on a wedge camper. I'm still in the design stage. Still working on my CAD model. I was thinking the same as you, going with the 52" wide.

Have you thought about adding a flip up bed platform? I'm trying to work one into my design.

Yes, I was actually just discussing this with a friend of mine yesterday, haha. I would love to get full bed standing access, much like the Super Pacific X1, but I already ordered my frame material and would have wanted to size up on wall thickness and change some dims to eliminate my center support and move the support of the platform to the sides. I think I will be fine with the 20.5" x 52" wide opening I have at the back for stand space. Will probably go flip up or slide away platform if I ever build a v2.

well I'm jealous and following your build.

so a little critique? maybe if you want to call it that? don't use the southco C2 latches. they don't last and fill with water and freeze shut. the tiny crimp that holds the entire lock together just fails randomly. It was less than 10 months when I had to replace the first latch on my GFC and it wasn't due to freezing UPGRADE TO C5 SIZE well worth the price. they are water/dust proof and more robust

these guys

Thanks for that recommendation! I will definitely order the C5s!

 

[fortywater12]

Changed my design around a bit today after bouncing some ideas off friends. Changed the mounting on the bedrails to 3/16" plate that spans the full width of the bedrail. I added large tabs that go on the inside of the bed for mounting - this mounting design is similar to a lot of bedracks on the market.

I think the 6x mounting points paired with the full surface area coverage on the bedrail will give me the most secure mounting, best weight distribution, and provide a large area to seal with weather-stripping and gasket to prevent water intrusion between the frame and bedrails. Since I no longer have a 1" tubing running along the bottom edge, I will weld in a 3/16" or 1/8" thick x 1.5" weather-strip plate to attach my gasket to for the windows.

Lastly, I removed the full cross supports on the sides in lieu of a single support in the center of the window with gussets. While I think the angled supports on the side give better structural support than the single post with gussets, I think the single support will be just fine with gussets based on the FEA I ran in solidworks. The angled supports will be very overbuilt and provide more obstruction when accessing the inside of the bed from the flip up windows. At this point, it is just personal preference for me and I am trying to factor in usability. The gussets will also double as tie down points for gear storage etc. I am still working on my gusset design and will update the model when it is complete.

 

[myothercarizahearse]

Changed my design around a bit yesterday after bouncing some ideas off friends. Changed the mounting on the bedrails to 3/16" plate that spans the full width of the bedrail. I added large tabs that go on the inside of the bed for mounting - this mounting design is similar to a lot of bedracks on the market.

perfect. that means you can make it contoured to fit the bedrail for even more weather proofing/better weight distribution... in case you didn't realize the bedrails have a slope to them

 

[fortywater12]

perfect. that means you can make it contoured to fit the bedrail for even more weather proofing/better weight distribution... in case you didn't realize the bedrails have a slope to them

Yep, you nailed it. The bedrails peak in the middle of the bed and are 1/4" lower on the front and rear.

 

[fortywater12]

I added the bottom platform (6mm MaxMetal Panel) and the extrusion into my model. I also added my appearances to my model to get an idea of how it will look so far. I am going to do a blaze orange space frame, white MaxMetal panel for floors and roof, and black extrusion. All of the side panels will be black 3mm MaxMetal panels. I wanted a sleek black look with white top and bottom panels. Then, you get a nice color pop with the blaze orange when you open it up.

The wedge frame (pop up portion) is 1.5" x 4.5" fixed lower extrusion, with 1.5" x 1.5" upper extrusion (pop portion). This is all 15 series lightweight 80/20. I chose 4.5" for the bottom and 52" ID between the rails to fit an exped duo LW and have it surrounded on all sides. The 52" ID of the extrusion will allow the exped to fit snuggly on the sides, and the 6" height of the extrusion will allow the exped to stay in place with blankets on top, and have the wedge be able to close.

Next up, add brackets, top panel, and fasteners to the space frame. After that, I will build what I have modeled.

 

[fortywater12]

I think I am all done modeling for now. Going to double check all of my measurements tonight then create my cut-list. I will be hand drilling all of my mounting holes before I paint the frame and put everything together.

As of right now, my extrusion is shipping on 11/11. That gives me roughly 3 weeks to complete my frame.

Ignore the weird shadow, my coordinates got all messed up when I imported some assemblies ?

 

[fortywater12]

Borrowed a friends flatbed to pick up my siding material this week. Ended up getting (3) sheets of 3mm black 4x8 and (3) sheets of 3mm white 5x10. Turns out they don't make 5x10 sheets in 6mm for the ACM (Aluminum Composite) from what I could find, so I will just sandwich 2 3mm sheets together with adhesive and then fasten them to the extrusion for the floor. I think it should be fine with adhesive and the through bolts that fasten it to the frame.

Dog Tax:

Material strapped down:

A buddy of mine helped out on my model and converted everything that could be bent into bends for me, as well as converted all of my profiles to weldments. I will share the finished product of the space frame this evening.

Tomorrow, I head to my friends shop to cut all of my profiles on my cut-list and make my bedrail mounts. Super excited! Stay tuned.

 

[fortywater12]

First day of real work aside from gathering materials and working my solid model today! Went to my friend's shop (Hot Metal Fab in Loomis, CA) and got my cut list together this morning.

We cut my bed rail plates out on their plasma cutter and used their press brake to bend my mounting locations and weather strip (lower gasket strip) surface. These turned out AMAZING. The guys over there are wizards and are great fabricators and metal workers. They do everything from signs to custom projects and 4wd rigs. If you can dream it they can build it - hit em' up!

Final space frame model update - converted all of my tubing to weldments and made as many bends as possible to reduce the amount of welding and weird cuts for the weather strip portion. Ended up using 1/8" plate instead of 3/16" since the shop ran out of 3/16":

Material Loaded on Plasma:

Bedrails cut out (ignore the crowbar, we put it on the piece since it bowed during cutting a bit:

Bed rails bent:

*Will take a pic*

Bed rail test fit:

Remainder of the tubing being cut:

Compound angle cuts - super tricky:

Loaded in the bed and ready to go home!

I will start welding everything together this weekend (Sunday). My goal is to get the lower bedrails fully welded and the top halo fully welded at a minimum. Ideally, I would like to also get all of the vertical tubes tacked in so I can burn everything in and sand down the welds during the week after work. Once that is done, I will get my hole locations from my model and drill those, and I will also weld on my gas strut weld nuts.

Starting to come together slowly but surely!

 

[fortywater12]

Did you bend them with a sledge hammer?

Yes, ye old convincer . The trick is calibrating your arm to swing very very precisely....


Just kidding. They have a big press brake at the shop and we used that. I was going to add a picture, but I didn't get one I don't think

 

[fortywater12]

Put in about 4 hours with friend last night and got the bed rails welded together, as well as the top halo. The only thing left to do on the frame is to weld in the vertical posts, the weld nuts of the gas struts, and some corner gussets/strap location.

After that, I will drill all my holes and send it off for powder coat. We test fitted the bedrails after we welded them together, and I could not be more happy with the fit.

Bed rails welded:

Top halo outside frame:

Complete top halo with supports - doing some sanding:

How it sits now. I recommend making a jig. We are trying to get everything balanced out with some 2x4s and it is a minor pain. We will be able to make it work, but it is a battle to keep everything plumb with your complex angles if you don't have an extra set of hands.

Will be wrapping up the welding tomorrow night most likely and will share more progress!

 

[ReigleCM]

How heavy is that going to be? Why steel and not aluminum?

 

[fortywater12]

How heavy is that going to be? Why steel and not aluminum?

Its .065” wall, so it is really light. I also sized down to 1/8” plate on the bed rails. I went steel for ease of fabrication and cost.

The total camper will weigh around 300lbs fully built. My model says the frame itself accounts for 90lbs of that. That was with the 3/16 plate in the design, so it’s likely closer to 85.

For reference, GFC V2 weighs 275lbs.

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