Bilstein 5100 install question

PltFX4

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I installed the Eibach rears and maybe they are longer than the 5100’s.
My suspension was fully unsprung with the rear tire an inch off the ground and the Eibach was still about 2 inches to long so I had to use a small floor Jack to push it up so the bottom bolt would go in.
Not sure if my setup is much different than others who have suggested it was easy and would just slid in. Certainly doable if you have 2 jacks.
Brian
Brian, fair enough, easy is a little to kind of statement on the rears... do-able for sure, but you will work for it.
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9zero1790

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when i changed rear shocks I did the top bolt first. then pushed the shock into place with one hand and a long stout screw driver to keep the shock in place until i could get a hand free to get the bolt going in. wasnt bad. the fronts i paid someone to do.
 

Bsenecal

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when i changed rear shocks I did the top bolt first. then pushed the shock into place with one hand and a long stout screw driver to keep the shock in place until i could get a hand free to get the bolt going in. wasnt bad. the fronts i paid someone to do.
Copy that you are certainly stronger than I am.
I also attached the top then tried to compress by pushing up with my hand, then put a large screwdriver through the bottom bolt hole of the shock so I could use both hands, still was not able to compress, so I got a second floor Jack and that worked.
The whole job took about 45 minutes.
Brian
 

Big Blue

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Brian, fair enough, easy is a little to kind of statement on the rears... do-able for sure, but you will work for it.
I did mine myself with the truck on the ground. I used a narrow ratchet strap and compressed them before installing. Then once both bolts are in release and pull the strap out. Simple you got to work smart not hard. :like:
 


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I guess I'll blaze the trail for 2WD guys in a couple weeks when we get back from vacation. I just can't see how I need to break the balljoints apart to get that assembly out. I'm thinking I can disconnect the swaybar and then air hammer the two lower studs out and the arms should swing down enough to pull the coilover out. If not, I have a set of compressors I can use to gain extra clearance.

Guess I'll F-around and find out.
 

9zero1790

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Copy that you are certainly stronger than I am.
I also attached the top then tried to compress by pushing up with my hand, then put a large screwdriver through the bottom bolt hole of the shock so I could use both hands, still was not able to compress, so I got a second floor Jack and that worked.
The whole job took about 45 minutes.
Brian
oh i dont know about that. i nearly popped an eye out of socket trying to compress the shocks
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I guess I'll blaze the trail for 2WD guys in a couple weeks when we get back from vacation. I just can't see how I need to break the balljoints apart to get that assembly out. I'm thinking I can disconnect the swaybar and then air hammer the two lower studs out and the arms should swing down enough to pull the coilover out. If not, I have a set of compressors I can use to gain extra clearance.

Guess I'll F-around and find out.
It's just the upper ball joint you have to worry about. On the 4WD trucks it gives you a whole lot of room you didn't have before
 

ctechbob

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It's just the upper ball joint you have to worry about. On the 4WD trucks it gives you a whole lot of room you didn't have before
I'm not really worried about it, I just prefer to not break those loose if I can help it.
 

Frenchy

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I'm not really worried about it, I just prefer to not break those loose if I can help it.
If you get lucky then maybe, but there is a chance you may not be lucky
 
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Crap, totally forgot I'd posted this. I ended up playing it safe and having a shop do the install. Loving the ride on the 5100s, towed a fully loaded U-Haul 6x12 600mi and it was rock solid the whole way. No more rolling around like a boat unloaded either, and in general much more confidence-inspiring handling, I used to get out of the left lane on twisty highways (particularly The Grapevine) because being next to the barrier felt so sketchy at speed, now it's no problem at all.

1.2" also seems perfect, it's noticeably higher up front but still has a bit of rake with a ~4.5k trailer on the back.
 

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it is possible. if you have the skill and stuffs to do it safe go for it. i would not. id be the guy going to the er with a spring shot through leg or something lol.
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Fawnbuster

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Crap, totally forgot I'd posted this. I ended up playing it safe and having a shop do the install. Loving the ride on the 5100s, towed a fully loaded U-Haul 6x12 600mi and it was rock solid the whole way. No more rolling around like a boat unloaded either, and in general much more confidence-inspiring handling, I used to get out of the left lane on twisty highways (particularly The Grapevine) because being next to the barrier felt so sketchy at speed, now it's no problem at all.

1.2" also seems perfect, it's noticeably higher up front but still has a bit of rake with a ~4.5k trailer on the back.
I had a shop do the 1.2 " then added a Readylifts spacer above and below the 5100 to get level and didn't affect ride quality
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