Rear axle spline count

Superdannyboy

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I've read a few threads trying to find the rear axle spline count. From what I've gathered, does anyone here know if the following is true?

1) that a rear axle equipped with the e locker has 31 spline axles?
2) that a rear axle not equipped with the e locker has 32 spline axles?

Has anyone counted the splines? If yes, what's the count and did your truck come with the e locker?

I have a rwd that came with an e locker but it shuts off at a low speed. I'm looking at running a spool or just welding the darn thing. I don't like the way it feels when I give it the beans and the power goes to one wheel. I'm going to truss the axle anyway so even a mini spool would work.

I know I'm going to get responses like that'll grenade your rear end or whatever, look idc I'm open to all opinions I can always learn from anyone and I don't have the budget for something like a truetrac since I need to buy supplies and tools for my roll cage and rear trailing arm 4-link suspension. That includes tubes, racing seats, tube bender, dies, big ass shocks, fuel cell, etc.
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Vitis805

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What are you trying to accomplish? Burnouts?

If your mission is actual on-pavement traction you are best off leaving it be. If it's off-road traction you are best off leaving it be, or installing the ARB locker.
 
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Superdannyboy

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What are you trying to accomplish? Burnouts?

If your mission is actual on-pavement traction you are best off leaving it be. If it's off-road traction you are best off leaving it be, or installing the ARB locker.
On road- yes, burnouts and fun U-turns and I'll put up with the chirping as I turn
Off road- full traction to both wheels with the hammer down through silt and I was reading that spools are the way to go to withstand shock loads when bombing through the dirt.

Edit: I'm building a race truck so with this as my daily I don't want the chirp I've found that the abs is killing my fun
 
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Vitis805

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On road- yes, burnouts and fun U-turns and I'll put up with the chirping as I turn
:facepalm:

My new recommendation is weld the diff. Don't think twice about it. Anybody recommending anything else is just a p**** and you don't need that kind of energy in your life. Get up early and do it tomorrow first thing.

Please post pics.
 

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I would caution about running a spool, I have one in my Mustang and it is fun as hell but I think in the Ranger it might become a burden more than anything else. I have a manual steering car and even parking makes the steering wheel physically harder to steer. Something to think about with the power steering (wear and tear).

I am also not sure how the on board nannies will act, you may still feel it pull throttle back and such once it sees the rear wheel speed greater than the front wheel speed sensors.

I hate how these new vehicles try to keep you safe when you are not trying to drive safe lol
 


XLT and me

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Just ditch that factory rear and swap in a 9 inch rear if you are planning that many mods to the truck. Aluminum center section, 4 link, coil overs, and one piece driveshaft. Electrical tape to cover up all the cel lights in dash.
 

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You may want to stay away from high traction surfaces, or just keep the tires spinning, the Ranger has enough tire to be hard on axles with a spool.
 

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:facepalm:

My new recommendation is weld the diff. Don't think twice about it. Anybody recommending anything else is just a p**** and you don't need that kind of energy in your life. Get up early and do it tomorrow first thing.

Please post pics.
1651675332466.gif
 

SkyLord

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You’re breaking ground to an extent for the Ranger, almost no one has done what your planning. It’s a proven technique in other platforms and those same issues and benefits will likely follow to your application on the Ranger. YOLO!
 

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We used to put a paint stripe down each axle whenever a spool went in a diff, cast iron axles will twist like you can't believe, I have personally seen them twist almost a full rotation without breaking.
That was in higher horsepower vehicles though.
 
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Superdannyboy

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We used to put a paint stripe down each axle whenever a spool went in a diff, cast iron axles will twist like you can't believe, I have personally seen them twist almost a full rotation without breaking.
That was in higher horsepower vehicles though.
Yea another reason to get a really good truss or completely new housing. Either way, a spool seems to be the strongest way to go for me. Thanks ?
 

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A stronger housing is good, wont help much with rotational axle stress, I wish somebody made a good posi unit for the axle.
 
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Superdannyboy

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A stronger housing is good, wont help much with rotational axle stress, I wish somebody made a good posi unit for the axle.
I finished 95% of my mechanical engineering courses this semester and left my 2 capstone classes for the next 2 semesters to utilize the machine shop at school as much as I want. I'll find the limits of my 31 spline axles. If they are 31 spline.
 
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Superdannyboy

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This video helped me better understand rearends. I watched it a year ago but at the time I was obsessed with suspension (still am). Lately I've been researching more and more on forums about rear end builds that I actually caught a lot that I missed the first time watching the video.

So welding the spider gears in our open diff or even using a mini spool still uses the same oem case and is hard on the oem axle shafts. Looks like I need to look into possibly 35 spline axle shafts and a m220 spool. Doubt I'll find one but something always leads to another. This is why I didn't start this thread off thinking I know it all even if I think this forum is full of old men that think I'm crazy ???
You learn something new everyday!

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