Aftermarket crash bars or just cut out the oems?

[MrBusses]

Just looking for opinions on which way to go. I am running a BDS 2inch level on 265/70r17 tires and I just installed Vision 17x9 +12 wheels which came to me free. So now I get a little bit of a rub on a full lock in reverse. I tried to adjust the front bars out but just not quite enough to clear and since I do off road it I would like it to clear. I have no problems ordering a set of aftermarket bars, the BDS set is can get by the weekend it looks like just looking for some input on is it worth it really. $15 for a diablo sawzall blade vs $90 for the bar kit, and I could use a fresh blade.

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[Dereku]

Watch a crash test video of the ranger and see where the tire goes. I like my legs, just my opinion. I would have something there to stop it.

 

[NotBudule2]

Don't cut anything related to safety, that's crazy and makes you liable, if it can be replaced with something that preforms equal to or better than OEM (better safety wise not just better bigger tire wise ) that would probably be OK and you'll sleep ? better...

 

[Superspirit]

I highly recommend the readylift they have the most clearance and look the strongest. I'm very happy with them but they are twice the price of those you listed. In my opinion worth every Penny for safety.

 

[MrBusses]

I went ahead and ordered the BDS set

 

[rang19ca]

Good move. The crash test videos show very heavy damage to the passenger area and the intrusion bars really work. I installed the front ones because the rears still cleared my new tire/wheel combo. I feel like they should be there.

 

[Frenchy]

The crash bars are there for a reason. That reason is to keep you safe in the event of an unwanted accident.

With that said, it would be best to have an aftermarket set vs no crash bars

 

[OFC Ranger]

Number of Rangers that BDS crash tested with their product: zero.

Peace of mind? Maybe. Reality? Who knows?

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

I’m not sure what’s more work, removal by cutting and unbolting them or removal by moving truck parts out of the way and unbolting them. Either way, you have a job ahead of you.

I opted for removing them intact - it takes a lot of patience and you have to remove things carefully to avoid breaking clips and tabs.

If you cut them out, Diablo or not, I’d have more than one on hand because I’m pretty sure you’ll still be in need a fresh blade when you’re done.

Good luck with this.

 

[RangerPNW]

I’m not sure what’s more work, removal by cutting and unbolting them or removal by moving truck parts out of the way and unbolting them. Either way, you have a job ahead of you.

I opted for removing them intact - it takes a lot of patience and you have to remove things carefully to avoid breaking clips and tabs.

If you cut them out, Diablo or not, I’d have more than one on hand because I’m pretty sure you’ll still be in need a fresh blade when you’re done.

Good luck with this.

Yeah its not a walk in the park cutting even with those Diablo blades... i went through about 4? If your sawzall has a speed control then you'll be in better shape. Keep the blade at its recommended speed and you'll have to trouble cutting through them. Mine doesn't and requires a gentle touch, so i burned up a few blades... Most of the battle though is just figuring out how to contort yourself and the saw into the wheel well to cut the damn things.

Also another vote for the ReadyLift bars, they're built really nicely and other reports on the forums suggest they're at least as strong as the factory Ford stuff (on their own).

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Yeah its not a walk in the park cutting even with those Diablo blades... i went through about 4? If your sawzall has a speed control then you'll be in better shape. Keep the blade at its recommended speed and you'll have to trouble cutting through them. Mine doesn't and requires a gentle touch, so i burned up a few blades... Most of the battle though is just figuring out how to contort yourself and the saw into the wheel well to cut the damn things.

Also another vote for the ReadyLift bars, they're built really nicely and other reports on the forums suggest they're at least as strong as the factory Ford stuff (on their own).

I’m also a fan of the ReadyLIFT bars. I provided some measurements from mine to another member for some homegrown FEA testing. Not highly scientific because assumptions on materials were made, but the result was that they were not quite as strong as OEM but they were certainly strong. Unfortunately, we have no data on what is strong enough. The OEMs might be twice as strong as what’s needed for safety or they might only be “just strong enough”. We’ll never know.

That said, the ReadyLIFTs have extra supports where it makes sense, are much thicker material than BDS or OEM, and just seem so darn beefy. But, are they all the same material or hardened the same? Likely not but I do like the ReadyLIFTs.

 

[MrBusses]

I am not concerned with the work involved. Looking at the workshop manual I can have the bumper off in about 10 minutes and just slide them out. I will have it on a lift and the tires off so it shouldn't be a big deal to remove and install.

 

[Grandaccess]

I have 285/75 with a 3 1/2 lift, Roush rims, I rub on that little plastic rain flap I am about to cut TF off LOL
I would never remove a safety item the way I drive thats just crazy I have used the bullbar to push the big round hay bails around a field but would never trust it in an accident!
I have been in the air a few times this year LOL so I am trying to get them to rub on the top of the fender
One of these days maybe next summer I will wash the damn thing and take better pictures, if your not going to use it as a truck, or should have bought a toyota?

 

[LawnMM]

Looking at the workshop manual I can have the bumper off in about 10 minutes

 

[MrBusses]

OK for the average person here it might take longer but I'm a ford senior master technician, I do this type of work daily.

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