Average life of the stock battery?

TomSim

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I have a 2019, over the weekend helped someone out with a dead battery. It got me thinking if I should be looking at replacing mine as it is the original. I'd rather be proactive than the truck not starting in some random parking lot.

Has anyone had their battery die from normal use yet on any 2019's?
i'm leaning towards an Optima H6 Battery, but any suggestions would be appreciated
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Figarou

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Thank you, I like that product! I’m assuming your camera didn’t capture the battery voltage level possibly from a slow display refresh speed. I can see the “V” on the face where it appears as tho it would display the voltage but isn’t visible.
Where might one get that product, amazon no doubt and how difficult was the install?
I didn't turn on the accessory mode. Or have the vehicle running. That's why the Volts is not displaying.

Amazon has plenty of options. You can simply plug in a volt meter.......

USB C Car Charger Adapter with Voltage Display, 30W Cigarette Lighter Type C Fast Charge Power Delivery & Quick Charge 3.0 (PD & QC), Volt Meter Battery Monitor, Compatible With iPhone 12 Galaxy Pixel https://a.co/d/eCsHqYx


Or have a permanent solution......


USB C Car Charger Socket, Qidoe 12V/24V Dual USB Outlet PD3.0 & QC3.0 Car USB Port with LED Voltmeter and ON/Off Switch DIY Car Socket for Car Boat Marine Bus Truck Golf RV Motorcycle https://a.co/d/3Lup5eL


Those are just 2 examples.

If you don't want to lose a 12 volt socket, I'll go with the 1st choice.
 
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airline tech

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Just a FYI

Some Plug in Voltmeters with the incorporated USB ports are limited to 12.6 Volts (Viewable)
If you want an easy cheap solution - For Voltage display only

These work great - Amazon
1702821483797.png


I also tried the plug in (USB / Voltmeter) Combo and I can only get it to read 12.6 Volts Max, it limits voltage to the USB Charging port.
So I cannot say all of the Combo's will be this way, but just to make you aware that this may be an issue for the Combo Meter's

Now with my testing and others seeing the same results.
Any plug in or direct wire - Voltmeter in the Power-Points will result in a small inaccurate reading of actual voltage. - They will read (.2) volts lower than actual battery voltage.
So, 12.8 at the battery will read 12.6 on the Plug In - Meter
This is the voltage drop across the power point relays.
 

airline tech

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what is intelligent access?
It is the Door Lock / Unlock Feature, with your Lariat when you put your hand behind the handle to unlock or put your finger on the exterior handle to lock the doors. (You are using it)
Basically, it is Ford Speak for not using an actual key to unlock the door, it is done with the FOB.
 

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It is the Door Lock / Unlock Feature, with your Lariat when you put your hand behind the handle to unlock or put your finger on the exterior handle to lock the doors. (You are using it)
Basically, it is Ford Speak for not using an actual key to unlock the door, it is done with the FOB.
what he said
 


Rviator

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I replaced my battery 2 weeks ago. The passenger door touch to unlock access was the first thing to quit working. ASS was likely the first thing to actually quit but I usually turn it off. Also the seat belt warning chime started sounding different. Replaced the stock battery with a Group 7 Diehard from Advance Auto. All is good now except the transmission shift learning curve has started from scratch again :( and radio settings were lost.
 

Sparky2

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I replaced my battery 2 weeks ago. The passenger door touch to unlock access was the first thing to quit working. ASS was likely the first thing to actually quit but I usually turn it off. Also the seat belt warning chime started sounding different. Replaced the stock battery with a Group 7 Diehard from Advance Auto. All is good now except the transmission shift learning curve has started from scratch again :( and radio settings were lost.
Did you forget to hookup an auxiliary power source to keep your settings intact while changing the battery?
 

IdahoRanger

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Just a FYI

Some Plug in Voltmeters with the incorporated USB ports are limited to 12.6 Volts (Viewable)
If you want an easy cheap solution - For Voltage display only

These work great - Amazon
1702821483797.png


I also tried the plug in (USB / Voltmeter) Combo and I can only get it to read 12.6 Volts Max, it limits voltage to the USB Charging port.
So I cannot say all of the Combo's will be this way, but just to make you aware that this may be an issue for the Combo Meter's

Now with my testing and others seeing the same results.
Any plug in or direct wire - Voltmeter in the Power-Points will result in a small inaccurate reading of actual voltage. - They will read (.2) volts lower than actual battery voltage.
So, 12.8 at the battery will read 12.6 on the Plug In - Meter
This is the voltage drop across the power point relays.
I needed a new USB charger so I got a 4 port USB charger with voltmeter and it does read above the 12.6. It showed charging @ 14.5 when I took the Ranger to get new shoes. It would drop to 12.2 as soon as I shut the truck off. @subquark it was this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BLK1LWKS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

12v power.jpg
 
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FX4rd

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Does this indicate anything? Been happening lot more often past few weeks, starting to piss me off.
Screenshot_20231101-051522_FordPass.jpg
Happening to me quite a bit as well, also notably over the past few weeks. My battery is the OEM, only 10k miles and under 2 years. Hopeful this might indicate it's the app, if it's happening to others.
 

REDWM

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I have a 2019, over the weekend helped someone out with a dead battery. It got me thinking if I should be looking at replacing mine as it is the original. I'd rather be proactive than the truck not starting in some random parking lot.

Has anyone had their battery die from normal use yet on any 2019's?
I have a April 2019 going on 5 years and not have any problems with battery. I do have a battery charger, desulfurization, trickle charge, pulse repair
IMG_0544.JPG
unit I hook up when ever I get the "System off to save battery" message and not had the battery go dead.
 

chrisakz

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Same here April of 2019 truck was built still has original battery, no issues. Also disabled the BMS about 2 years ago via Forscan. However I do feel that it could crap out anytime now as it’s starting to get old.
 

Bsthroop

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My 2019 is on it's third, I disabled BMS with number 3 and no more issues.
 

Hocakes

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2 stupid newbie questions. Yes, I searched.

1) my new to me Tremor has been sitting since I bought it. So I decided to hook my Ctek battery tender up to it. I happened to lift up the black felt cover after and saw the sticker on top with the part # that starts off with BAGM so I am assuming this is an AGM battery, correct?? I changed the mode on the Ctek to the snowflake symbol/AGM mode because of this.

2) How the hell do you remove the black fabric hold down strap to lift off the felt cover & read the entire sticker on top of the battery? I looked in the owner's manual, no go. It looks like you would have to disconnect both terminals & move them out of the way in order to slide the black fabric cover along with the strap off. Am I missing something?

3) Bonus question: when looking in the owner's manual it says not to hook anything directly to the negative terminal since it will screw up the battery monitoring system (have never had a car with this before). I had the Ctek on there for a little while before finding a way to hook the positive clip to the positive battery terminal & the negative one to a boss on the engine. Am I going to anger the computer??
 

Lone

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It's not the life of the battery, it's Ford's wacky computerized charging system and the electrical parasites. I got a new battery and 2 months later, the truck was back to its old electrical shenanigans. :(
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